How to Apply Lower Lash Mascara According to a Makeup Artist

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I wouldn’t be surprised if your mascara is top lash line-exclusive. I get it. Those tiny bottom hairs just never seem worth the effort and possible injury. News flash—your mascara application is simply incomplete if those bottom lashes get zero love. While a coat or two of mascara on top can disguise a late night out, knowing how to apply lower lash mascara guarantees that bam!-in-your-face-doe-eyed-realness. No contest, right? Time to master what is probably the most underrated makeup skill of all time. 

I already know what you’re still thinking—”my makeup routine already has a million steps, and I’m definitely not interested in adding yet another.” Well, applying bottom lash mascara doesn’t take nearly as much time as you assume. It’s the simple, yet oft-forgotten step that makes a huge difference when all is said and done. Want to look bright-eyed at 7am even if you didn’t get a full eight hours of sleep? 

All you need is a lash primer, your favorite mascara, and a little patience. In no time, you’ll be applying bottom lash coverage like a pro. Let’s get to it. 

lower mascara tutorial

Mika Robinson.

 Apply mascara primer, aka your base layer.

If you haven’t used a lash primer before, you don’t know what you’re missing. Similar to a primer that you’d apply before foundation, eyelash primer gives your mascara something to cling onto. If you have very thin or short lashes (like myself), lash primer is especially important because it will help the mascara grip onto your barely-there lashes without a struggle (or a mess, for that matter).  

The primer I’m using is the Lancôme Cils Booster Super Enhancing Mascara Base. It goes on white, so you have to let it dry down thoroughly before applying mascara on top. Otherwise, your lash primer and mascara may mix and appear gray, which isn’t the look we’re going for here.  

lower mascara tutorial

Mika Robinson.

Rub the pointed tip of the mascara wand against your lashes in a horizontal motion.  

Raise your hand if you’re a part of the small bottom lash squad like me! Well, according to celebrity makeup artist and TEMPTU Global Educator Frederick Sanders, lower lash mascara is especially helpful to us. 

“I suggest using the tip of the brush to apply the product and then traditionally shaking the product through the lash with quick left to right movements.  I love the TEMPTU’s Built To Lash Mascara for this because the product is super rich in color and nourishing to the lashes.  The color allows the building of the lashes quickly. This mascara is also smudge-proof so the client would not have to worry about raccoon eyes.”

The mascara you use on your top lashes will work just fine on the bottom too. There are also formulas made specifically for the lower lash line. For the latter, a wand will usually be much smaller and possibly more beginner-friendly. Today, I’m using Lancôme Monsieur Big Waterproof Mascara because I love the way it plumps up my lashes, and the waterproof formula is a must for my teary eyes. 

lower mascara tutorial

Mika Robinson.

Apply your mascara in a downward motion while wiggling the brush through your lashes.   

This step is probably familiar to you. Now that you have some mascara coated on your lower lashes, you can apply a bit more while pulling your lashes downward, aka in the direction that they grow naturally. Wiggling through the lashes as you brush downward will help to separate them and get rid of clumps. 

lower mascara tutorial

Mika Robinson.

Let the first coat of mascara dry entirely; then apply additional layers for extra thickness. 

Sanders also shares that there is hope for sparse bottom lashes and it lies in the layers.

“Small and sparse lashes should build the mascara in layers, carefully pulling the wand through and careful not to cause clumping. Since mascara is made to be layered, repeat this process until the desired volume is achieved. Using the TEMPTU’s Built To Lash Mascara will nourish the lashes while in use as you can strengthen the lash and grow fuller lashes in the interim.”

As he pointed out, applying mascara in layers is the secret to getting your lashes to look thicker. Of course, this step is optional, but if you want your bottom lashes to pop, you shouldn’t skip it! The key to layering mascara without it clumping is to let a coat of mascara completely dry before applying another.

Now it’s your turn!

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