Marrakech is a city that to me, was the image of a far-flung, exotic getaway. Upon landing you’re greeted by a wash of sunshine and the dry desert heat. As you drive into the Medina, you are greeted by warm pink walls, mystifying alleyways, and ornate, Arabic tilework. It’s a city that opens up your senses. A walk through the city center is an invitation to a flood of fragrances. Whether it’s the spices at the Souk or the flowering buds of Fleur d’Oranges in a jardin, the best thing about Marrakech is that the sheer presence of being there is an escape hatch from anywhere else.
I spent 10 days in Morocco, 5 in the Medina and another 5 in the countryside. In all honesty, you can get a feel for the city with a 3-day trip. If I had to re-do it all again I would spend 2 days in the village outskirts.
CURRENCY:
Moroccan DIRHAM
100 = 10 USD
LANGUAGE:
Arabic and French. Many of the vendors at the souk are fluent in English.
BEST TIME TO GO:
In spring or fall, when the desert temperatures are mild.
HOTELS:
There are two ways to approach hospitality in Marrakech. There are palatial properties like La Mamounia and Royal Mansour Marrakech, both former palace grounds that offer white-glove service fit for royalty. Then there are the Riad-converted boutique hotel, which provide a more intimate setting. Riads are traditional homes in Morocco containing an inner courtyard and garden. We stayed at La Mamounia and later transferred to a riad, which we liked for different reasons.
Properties like La Mamounia are so luxuriously designed there’s almost no desire to leave the hotel, which has its own manicured gardens, restaurants, bars and hammam with no shortage of Instagram-worthy moments. If the aim of your holiday is to relax, then splurging on a 5-star property is the perfect way to experience Marrakech. If you’re looking for more of an adventure, the Riads are located in the heart of the Medina and feels more like an authentic way to experience Marrakech.
DRESS CODE:
The first rule to dressing in Morocco is respecting the cultural emphasis on modesty. While Marrakech is dominantly Muslim, the heavy influx of tourism does permit for a more open-minded dress code. It is considered polite to leave your club clothing behind, but you are not completely restricted to maxi dresses and caftans. You’ll find that most travelers get by wearing shorts and mid-length dresses.
Coverage completely depends on your comfort level. At the souks, sellers are on the look-out for tourists, and wearing revealing clothing is a glaring draw to attention. You will not find a lot of women working at the souks, so wearing revealing clothing may solicit unwanted cat calling from vendors.
The Old Medina is typically more conservative in terms of dress code among the locals. You’ll find that Moroccan women in the Old Town are traditionally covered in the burqa, while in Gueliz, the modern town in Marrakech, you’ll find that local women are dressed more modern, styling a hijab in Western styles of clothing.
SOUKS:
When it comes to the souks, I would recommend doing a walk through before engaging in any transactions. Once you get a feel for the souk, you start to notice that all the shops carry identical inventory, especially when it comes to babouches, Turkish towels and argan oil.
While there is no shortage of things to buy at the Souk, I found that there were a lot of inauthentic objects that I’ve seen in other high-density markets in Bali and Mexico, which are peddled as “Made in Morocco”. We also spotted a man unloading a box from China in one of the stalls – so I would be skeptical about purchasing pottery unless it’s sourced from a studio. The well-priced objects were glassware, babouches, rugs, and herbs. I stopped at Lahandira fto buy a carpet and Tresor de Nomades for Moroccan trinkets. I bought baskets in Places Des Epices, an outdoor market packed with vendors laying out all sorts of souvenirs, including baskets in all shapes and sizes. For herborists, I visited Herboriste du Paradis.
HAGGLING:
This is one city where you negotiate the price of everything – for cab fare, for spices, for babouches, for rugs, you name it. My advice is to not get swept into the heat of a transaction – don’t be afraid to walk away if you feel that the price is not fair. Several shops offer the same product. In my experience, the worst that can happen is that you haggle too low with one vendor, and after price matching in neighboring shops, realize that the original vendor had the best price. You can always return to finish the deal.
TAXIS:
Any place within the medina walls should not cost you more than 30 MAD (3 US dollars) during the day. At night, the taxi drivers surge the prices and may use bartering tricks like adding an additional charge for traveling with a companion. Haggle on what you feel is fair for the price, and even you feel that it’s too expensive – move on and try to hail the taxi right after.
RESTAURANTS:
For traditional fare, visit Café Arabe, Cafe des Epices, Akkal
For lunch: La Famille, Kechmara, La Terrace des Epices, Grand Cafe de la Poste
For dinner: Dar Cherifa, Ksar Essaoussan, La Maison Arabe
For something more modern, head to Plus 61, Nomad, Max and Jan.
BARS:
As Morocco is a Muslim country, there isn’t a strong drinking culture, however, finding a drink is not impossible to find. Most restaurants serve a wine list during dinner, but if you’re looking to grab a cocktail, head towards the 4 to 5-star hotels, who can fix you up a drink with all the accouterments.